. But the population is still motley and Asiatic. Turbans, caps,
and the scarlet fez, loose gowns, and embroidered trousers, make the
streets picturesque. On the other hand, crowds of Europeans, tourists,
merchants, and tailors, are to be seen mingling with the Asiatics; and
the effect is singularly varied and animated.
The pageant of the French consul-general going to pay his respects to
the Viceroy, exhibited one of the shows of the place. First came a
number of officers of state, in embroidered jackets of black cachmere,
ornamented gaiters, and red morocco shoes. Each wore a cimeter, an
essential part of official costume. Next followed a fine brass band;
after them came a large body of infantry in three divisions, the whole
in heavy marching order. Their discipline and general appearance were
striking; they wore the summer dress, consisting of a white cotton
jacket and trousers, with red cloth skull-caps, and carried their
cartouche-boxes, cross-belts, and fire-locks in the European manner. The
next feature, and the prettiest, consisted of the Pasha's led horses, in
number about eighteen, all beautiful little Arabs, caparisoned with
crimson and black velvet, and cloth of gold. We repeat the description
of one, for the sake of tantalizing our European readers with the
Egyptian taste in housings. "The animal was a chestnut horse, of perfect
form and action. His saddle was of crimson velvet, thickly ribbed by
gold embroidery. His saddle-cloth was entirely of cloth of gold,
embossed with bullion, and studded with large gems; jewelled pistols
were seen in the holsters; the head-piece was variegated red, green,
and blue; embroidered and golden tassels hung from every part." But the
European portion of the scene by no means corresponded to the Oriental
display. The French consul followed in a barouche and pair, with his
_attaches_ and attendants in carriages; but the whole were mean-looking.
The French court-dress, or any court-dress, must appear contemptible in
its contrast with the stateliness of this people of silks and shawls,
jewelled weapons, and cloth of gold.
Mohammed Ali is, after all, the true wonder of Egypt. A Turk without a
single prejudice of the Turk--an Oriental eager for the adoption of all
the knowledge, the arts, and the comforts of Europe--a Mahometan
allowing perfect religious toleration, and a despot moderating his
despotism by the manliest zeal for the prosperity of his country; he has
already rais
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