ne piece
entirely blend before adding another. The butter will probably salt the
sauce enough, but if not, add a very little salt. This sauce should have
the appearance of a Welsh-rabbit when ready to spread; in other words,
it should be very thick, smooth, and dark yellow.

_Soubise._--This sauce, which transforms ordinary mutton-chops into
"cotelettes a la Soubise," is very easily made. Boil half a dozen
Bermuda onions (medium size) in milk till quite tender; press out all
the milk; chop them as fine as possible; sprinkle a quarter of a
saltspoonful of white pepper and one of salt over them; then stir them
with a tablespoonful of butter into half a pint of white sauce. If the
onions should thin the sauce too much (they are sometimes very watery),
thicken with a yolk of egg, or blend a teaspoonful of flour with the
butter before stirring it in. Boil the sauce three minutes. Needless to
say, if the yolk of egg is added, it must be beaten in after the sauce
is removed from the stove, and only allowed to thicken, not boil.

The sauces so far given are what French cooks call "grand sauces." They
are the most important part of the dish with which they are served, and,
as we have seen, give the name to it. There are numberless other sauces
of which the white sauce is parent that are, however, not indispensable
to the dish they are served with--by which I mean a boiled fish may be
served with oyster sauce or Dutch sauce, the sauce being in this case
simply the adjunct.

A dessertspoonful of capers put into half a pint of white sauce, with a
teaspoonful of the vinegar, makes caper sauce.

Celery sauce is, again, white sauce with the pulp of boiled celery. Boil
the white part of four heads of celery (sliced thin) in milk till it
will mash; this will take an hour, perhaps more; then rub the pulp
through a coarse sieve, and stir it into half a pint of white sauce made
with half rich cream.

Oyster sauce is white sauce made by using the oyster liquor instead of
stock. The oysters should be bearded, just allowed to plump in the
liquor, which must then be strained for the sauce, using a gill of it
with a gill of thick cream to make half a pint; for this quantity a
dozen and a half of small oysters will be required.

Shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, lobster sauce, cucumber sauce, and all the
family are white sauce with the addition of the ingredient naming it.
Cucumber sauce, which is approved for fish, is made by grating a
cucumb