baked fish
of any kind, although usually associated with sole. To half a pint of
Spanish sauce add a dozen mushrooms sliced in half, a dozen small
oysters with the beards removed, and a dozen crawfish, if they are to be
had, or their place may be taken by a tablespoonful of shrimps picked
(canned shrimps, washed and dried, answer very well), one tablespoonful
of essence of anchovy, and just a dust of Cayenne pepper.

Light _Normande_ is made by using bechamel instead of Spanish sauce,
adding all the other materials; it is then a pale salmon-colored sauce,
excellent for boiled fish.

A favorite English sauce for fish, which is also brown or pink,
according to whether it is intended for baked or boiled fish, is the
_Downton sauce_. To three quarters of a pint of bechamel add a
dessertspoonful of anchovy essence and a small wineglass of sherry, mix
well, and serve.

_Orange sauce_ for game is made with half a pint of Spanish sauce boiled
five minutes to make it rather thicker than usual, the juice of three
sweet oranges, and the peel of one. This peel must be so thinly pared as
to be transparent. Boil this peel half an hour in water, then shred it
into fine even strips half an inch long, and not thicker than broom
straw. Stew this shredded peel another half-hour in a gill of stock,
with a scant teaspoonful of sugar; then add it to the sauce, with half
a saltspoonful of salt, and boil five minutes.

_Matelote_ may come in with the brown sauces, although it is not made
with Spanish sauce as a foundation, but only with strong stock. It is
used to simmer fish in when directed to be _a la matelote_, and if it
were already thickened the whole would burn. It is made as follows: Half
a pint of Sauterne or Chablis, half a pint of rich stock, two
bay-leaves, three leaves of tarragon, chervil, and chive, a scant
saltspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper; simmer these until
reduced to one half-pint. A _touch_ of garlic is indispensable to the
true matelote, but when used it must be done with the greatest caution;
a fork stuck into a clove of it, then stirred in the sauce (the fork,
when withdrawn, not the garlic), or a crust rubbed once across a piece
of it, is the only way in which it should be used.

Like the white sauces, the family of brown ones is very large, but I
have given those which require special directions. Others are simply
Spanish sauce with the addition of the ingredient which gives its name
to it, as brown o