a dozen of the mushrooms chopped fine.
Let them simmer--stirring all the time--five minutes, then remove from
the fire. Set the saucepan into another containing boiling water. Have
the yolks of three eggs ready beaten, put a little of the sauce to them,
beat together, then add the eggs gradually to the rest of the sauce,
which must be returned to the fire, and stirred until the eggs _begin_
to thicken; then it must be quickly removed, and stirred until slightly
cool. Season with a saltspoonful of salt, a fourth of one of pepper, and
strain carefully.

It must never be forgotten that in thickening with eggs the sauce or
soup must _not boil_ after they are added, or they will curdle. Yet if
they do not reach the boiling-point they will not thicken. Only keen
attention to the first sign of thickening will insure success. If a
failure is made the first time, look upon it as the first step to
success, for you have learned what the danger _looks like_. Make the
sauce again as soon as possible, so that your eye may not lose the
impression. It is worth considerable effort (and it is really only a
matter of a few minutes each time) to make Allemande sauce well, for in
doing so you also learn to make Hollandaise and several choice sauces,
as will be seen by those that follow.

_Poulette Sauce._--Make Allemande sauce as directed in the foregoing
recipe; add a wineglass of white wine. If sweetbreads or chicken are to
be cooked in the sauce, as is not unusual, of course the eggs must be
left out until the last thing. Anything served with this sauce is called
_a la poulette_.

_Sauce a la d'Uxelles._--Chop fine a dozen _small_ button mushrooms, or
half a dozen large ones; parsley and chives, of each enough to make a
teaspoonful when finely chopped; of lean ham a tablespoonful, and one
small shallot. Fry gently in a tablespoonful of butter, but do not let
them brown. Stir these into half a pint of white sauce, simmer three or
four minutes, then add two yolks of eggs, as for Allemande, and the last
thing a half-teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and just enough glaze to make
the sauce the shade of a pale Suede glove. This sauce is used cold to
coat meats that have to be cooked in paper, and many that are afterwards
to be fried in bread-crumbs, for which directions will be given in the
_entrees_. Dishes termed _a la d'Uxelles_ are among the most _recherche_
productions of the French kitchen.

_Villeroi Sauce._--Make half a pint of white s