n which the mighty surges of the Atlantic were breaking
into foam. Late in the afternoon of December 2nd the 'Sunbeam' gained
the northern entrance to the channel which divides Fayal and Pico. An
attempt was made to reach Horta, but it was found that a heavy sea was
running into the anchorage. It was a pitchy night, and we determined
to wait outside till daylight, standing across to Pico under steam for
shelter from the wind and sea.

At dawn on the 3rd the moon was still shining on the northern face of
the noble mountain, towering in solitary grandeur to a height of 7,800
feet. The snowy peak stood up from its mantle of clouds, and took the
rosy hues of the morning. An hour's steaming carried us into the
anchorage at Fayal, where we remained through the day of December 3rd.
The passage from Sierra Leone to Fayal had been accomplished, with
adverse winds during a considerable part of the voyage, in 16-1/2
days, 2,005 knots being covered under sail at an average speed of 6.3
knots, and 460 miles under steam at an average speed of 6 knots.

[Illustration: Pico]

We found several sailing vessels at anchor in the roadstead of Horta.
One British vessel had come in for provisions, another to repair a
damaged rudder. A barque hailing from Boston was one of a line which
carries on a regular service under canvas between the Azores and
America. They depend chiefly on passengers, who make the cruise for
the sake of health. The Norwegian flag was represented by one most
crazy wooden ship, 70 years old, and by another of nearly equal
antiquity, and in a like condition of unseaworthiness. The captains of
both the Norwegians were hoping that the surveyors might condemn them
as unfit for further service.

[Illustration: Bearing up for Shelter]

Fayal offers especially favourable opportunities for the obsequies of
an unseaworthy ship insured beyond her value. The danger to life from
the attempt to navigate in vessels no longer fit to contend with storm
and tempest can only be removed by compelling the owners to bear some
share of the pecuniary risk.

The local prosperity depends mainly on shipping. Business is on the
decline. The opening of the Suez Canal, the introduction of powerful
iron and steel built ocean liners, which suffer comparatively little
from the effects of heavy weather, and, as the people of Fayal allege,
the legislation promoted by Mr. Plimsoll, which has withdrawn their
best customers, the weakly and unsound ve