ssels, from active service at
sea, have combined to produce a marked diminution in the number of
ships calling at the port. The whalers under the United States flag
still make it their headquarters in the summer season. During the
present year nine have been seen at the anchorage at the same time.
Exciting chases in pursuit of the sperm whale sometimes take place in
the channel between Fayal and Pico. Numerous whale-boats are kept on
the island, and are instantly launched when a whale is seen near the
shore. A breakwater is now in progress at Horta, but the work is
proceeding with the customary _festina lente_ method of the
Portuguese.
Having taken in water and provisions, the voyage was resumed on the
evening of December 3rd, with a favourable wind from the SS.E. At
midnight the wind shifted suddenly to the north-east, and on the
following morning the 'Sunbeam' bore up, before a severe gale, for
shelter under the lee of Terceira. Late in the day the veil of
lowering clouds was drawn aside, and the sun descending to the west,
lighted up the landscape with a flood of golden light.
Terceira is of volcanic formation. Its highest ridges attain an
elevation of 4,000 feet. The crests of the hills are clothed with
forests of pine and rich pastures. At a lower level the indications of
laborious cultivation are seen in range upon range of terraced gardens
and vineyards. The island is densely inhabited, and the numerous white
houses give an air of cheerfulness and prosperity to the scene, which
recalls the more familiar charms of the Bay of Naples and the Straits
of Messina.
On December 5th, the gale subsided to a calm, and the voyage homewards
was commenced under steam. In a few hours the engines broke down, and
sail was made to a light breeze from the north-east. On the succeeding
days favourable winds were experienced from the westward. On the 11th
the wind shifted to the south-east, accompanied by drizzling rain and
fog, which rendered observations impossible, and which continued until
the Scilly Island lights were sighted in a fortunate lifting of the
haze, on the evening of the 12th. The run from the Scilly Islands to
Spithead was made at the rate of 11-1/2 knots an hour, before a
south-westerly gale.
The total distance from Fayal, including the call at Terceira, was
1,440 miles, of which sixty only were under steam. The average speed
was 7 knots. The 'Sunbeam' entered Portsmouth Harbour at noon on
December 14.
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