where it is received into vats, and then by different processes
converted into sugar of three kinds--white, medium white, and light
brown. The first-quality sugar is made white by being subjected to a
process of sulphur fumes, which produce beautiful glittering crystals.
It is said that this method of treating the sugar is not so
satisfactory as the old and rougher process. It seems to bleach the
crystallised particles without sufficiently removing the impurities.
The quality of the sugar is, however, excellent, and it commands a
high price in England.

From the mill I was carried through a clean and tidy-looking coolie
village to a comfortable house of the bungalow type, like those in
Mourillyan Harbour, inhabited by Mr. Nash, the proprietor of one of
the plantations, and Mr. Levinge, who had kindly arranged a luncheon
for us. Australian colonists are the most hospitable people in the
world. Their one idea seems to be to endeavour to do everything they
can for you, to give you the best of everything they possess. Nowhere,
in all our far-extending travels, have we received more true
hospitality. I had a comfortable sofa provided for me, whereon I lay
during lunch, and afterwards I rested in a chair in the verandah while
the others went to see more of the sugar plantation and mill.

About three o'clock we started back, and returned much quicker than we
came up, for which I was very thankful. Pleasant as the day had been I
was getting rather worn out. On our return to Mourillyan our
hospitable hosts accompanied us on board, and made an inspection of
the 'Sunbeam.' They could not stop long, as our Jersey pilot said we
had better be off before dark, the entrance to the harbour being very
narrow. It is, however, so well buoyed that when the new chart is
published there will be no difficulty in getting in or out at any time
of the day or night, with or without a pilot. In the night there are
two leading lights which show you the direct way in, the only danger
being at spring tides, when the tide sometimes runs eight or nine
knots an hour. The harbour looked lovely as we steamed away, and we
were quite sorry to leave the little haven of rest where we had spent
such a peaceful, comfortable day and night.

[Illustration: On the Johnstone River]

We were soon outside Mourillyan and past the picturesque mouth of the
Johnstone River. Judging from the photographs, the scenery of this
river must be very fine, for the sun-pictures