o stopper them all."

Beyond this, the land was more fertile and under better cultivation.
Well built stone houses replaced the huts; glossy-leaved orange trees
and pink-blossomed almond trees dotted the fields or filled the
orchards. Instead of fences, the boundaries of fields and farms were
marked at the corners by white stones projecting above the ground.
Farther along, yellow-green olive plantations, magnificent in size and
beautiful in color, filling the valleys and hillsides as far as the eye
could see with orderly, far-reaching lines of trees, made so impressive
a sight that it drew forth many expressions of admiration.

[Illustration: SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION.]

Women, as gatekeepers, waved white flags to signal that the crossings
were clear. Gangs of men, often thirty in a gang, were in the fields
cultivating leeks or onions with crude, heavy-looking, short-handled
hoes. Teams of long-horned oxen attached to old-fashioned plows, at
times eight or ten teams in one field, were turning up the soil.
Occasionally ox-teams drawing heavily laden carts or wagons were seen
along the smooth white roads; but more frequently appeared trains of
slowly moving donkeys, five or six in a line, with gay trappings and
bells and panniers piled high with produce, driven by red-sashed
muleteers.

At stations where the train stopped five or ten minutes, the doors at
the sides of the compartments were opened and the passengers descended
and walked up and down the platform. Spanish women, carrying jugs, cried
"Lacte," "Limonada," "Narrandjada," and "Acqua," and other peddlers with
baskets offered "bollos," "tortitas," and "narranges." After some
difficulties in obtaining information as to "how much," the shillings
and pence, pesetas and centimes of the tourists were exchanged for the
milk, lemonade, orangeade, and water, the cakes, rolls, and oranges of
the dealers.

One of the ladies, after making a purchase, said, "I asked that woman
with the black-eyed baby the price of a half dozen oranges. She said,
'Fifty centimes.' Then I offered her an English six-pence, and she gave
me six oranges and a penny in change."

Spanish boys scrambled for a roll or boiled eggs thrown to them, and
men, women, and children extended their hands for money or remnants of
our luncheon. One boy who had secured an apple and an egg in a scramble
laughed with happiness over his success. These people did not appear to
be destitute; for childr