andling their oars, rowed us to the shore. Their brightly
painted boats had peculiar carved wooden posts erected at prow and stern
and white awnings overhead. Walking up a sloping, zigzag pathway,
constructed in a passage cut down through the high cliffs, we ascended
from the busy docks to the heights above. At the summit a Maltese
gentleman kindly directed us on our way to the Queen's Garden located
directly above the landing place.

From the parapets of this place a magnificent and interesting view of
the harbor was obtained. Not far away, but hundreds of feet below us,
the Moltke lay, encircled by the white awning-covered boats. Eight large
battleships and a dozen cruisers and gunboats, all painted black, were
lying peacefully at anchor. Steamships and sailing vessels at the docks
were discharging cargoes, or were lying in the bay awaiting their turn
to unload. Steam launches were busily flying from one point to another,
and little ferry boats were constantly crossing and re-crossing the bay.
The harbor was surrounded by high cliffs and old gray fortifications.
At the entrance to the bay stood a tall lighthouse and a frowning
fortress, the one for guidance, the other for protection. Through the
entrance a ship with spread sails was entering, and beyond, the sunlight
shone on the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean.

[Illustration: ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE "STRADA REALE."]

The streets of Valetta were full of life that day. In reply to inquiries
we were informed that on the following day, the Sunday preceding Lent, a
festa, or carnival, lasting three days, would begin. During the festa,
business would be suspended, and the people, disguised in masks and
fanciful costumes, would engage in most ludicrous and extraordinary
antics and play all manner of practical jokes on one another, showering
the passers-by gently with confetti and flowers, or pelting them
stingingly with dried peas and beans. Many children, impatient for the
morrow to come, were already parading the streets arrayed in their
costumes.

Attractive stores line the "Strada Reale," the main shopping street. In
these stores laces, gold and silver filagree work, jewelry, and
embroidered muslins were the principal wares sought by the tourists. The
ladies of our party were particularly anxious to secure pieces of
Maltese lace, a special hand-made product noted for the excellence of
its quality, the making of which gives employment to thousands of th