s, which are open in front, allowing all that goes on inside to
be visible from the street, and on the benches outside the shops, we saw
the customers sitting crosslegged slowly imbibing this favorite beverage
from tiny cups. It was plainly apparent that in this warm climate where
there is no haste, numberless hours are dreamed away on the benches of
these cafes.

[Illustration: ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY.]

When we left the modern part of the city and ascended the avenues which
lead up the hill toward the older portion we found the streets
diminishing in width until they were only passageways from six to ten
feet wide, bordered by high buildings with blank walls showing no
windows below, but with projecting windows above which almost meet
overhead. In some of these steep, narrow, crooked streets there are
little shops about the size of a large closet in which the merchant,
sitting crosslegged on bench or cushion, can reach his goods and wait on
his customer without rising or interfering with the enjoyment of his
pipe. As the narrow thoroughfares are not wide enough for carriages, we
had to walk through them with a guide. We were not favorably impressed
with the odors nor with the sight of the filth in the streets and were
glad when the guide turned from the gloom and foulness of the ancient
Moorish streets and led us again toward the bright and attractive
avenues of the modern city.

The electric street cars are divided into two compartments; the first
class having thin cushions on the seats, and the second class having
wooden seats without cushions. The natives save the extra penny of fare
by crowding into the second class, thus giving to the first class
passengers the advantage of always having enough room. In the second
class, however, the tourists had a more favorable opportunity to study
the people. Opposite us in one of the second class compartments which we
entered sat two veiled women in their voluminous white bloomers and
wrappings. We could see that one was old by the fact that she leaned
upon a staff, and we decided that the other was young because she showed
some curiosity. Sitting near us was a little black haired Arab girl
with a chunk of dry bread in her hand, at which she was gnawing
greedily. In a corner seat a meek looking nun in black gown and wide
spreading stiff bonnet was counting the beads of her rosary as quietly
as if alone in her devotions.

[Illustration: ABLUTION AT THE FOUN