mid gardens of glossy-leaved orange and lemon
trees. Palms, plane, and pepper trees lined the clean, wide avenues;
green terraces beautified the hillside gardens; and villas were almost
hidden from sight by the climbing roses and luxuriant vines with
clusters of purple racemes.

"Many of these villas," said the guide, "are owned by wealthy English
and French families who spend the winters here. The mild climate and
uniform temperature of our city makes this place a favorite winter
resort not only for invalids, but for those who desire to get away from
the damp fogs and harsh winds of more northern climates."

[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET.]

"Our city is noted for two views which we think are unsurpassed," he
continued, as the driver reined in his team on a summit. "One is this
which we now look down upon of city, harbor, sea, and villages near and
distant along the shore. The other, you already have seen from the deck
of the vessel, yet at sunset you will find that panorama of the city,
villages, heights and mountains even more beautiful."

While we were exploring the city, the officers on the steamer were
engaged in directing the taking on of fresh supplies of coal, water, and
provisions, which had been purchased at Algiers. During the two days the
Moltke lay in the harbor fifteen hundred tons of coal were carried in
baskets on the shoulders of Arabs from barges into the hold of the
vessel, a slow method of delivering compared with the rush of the steam
scoops in New York harbor where three thousand tons were dumped into the
bunkers in a few hours' time. Fresh water also was brought from shore in
tank barges and pumped from these into the tanks on the steamer. The
quantity of fresh water required at this port cost the steamship
company, so the engineer informed us, a sum equal to four hundred
dollars. Also great quantities of fresh fruits and vegetables were
received on board, one of the most welcome things thus added to our
bountiful bill of fare being the tender green artichoke which in Algiers
grows to perfection.

On Thursday afternoon a reception was held on the Moltke and our band
gave a most enjoyable musical program for the occasion. Hundreds of well
dressed, courteous French ladies, gentlemen, and children, and some
French officials in uniforms, came on board to visit the vessel which
was thrown wide open for their examination. Some of the officers of the
naval vessels also came to the r