of sandy hills on each side of the road, and the sides of them
scooped out into houses or rather caves, and you have a sufficient idea
of this French village, containing some hundreds of inhabitants. The
hills being hollowed out on the further extremity from the road, a
traveller might certainly pass through it, without perceiving any thing
of it. This style is even carried where there is not the same natural
advantage of a hill to hollow out. The village extends into the plain,
which is likewise dug out into subterraneous houses, and which are only
visible by the smoke issuing from the chimnies. I could not understand
the convenience or necessity for these kind of habitations. The ground,
indeed, being chalky, is at once dry and easily dug, but on the other
hand, the country so abounds in wood and clay, that a very little
industry, and a very little expence, might have provided these living
human beings with something better than a grave. Mademoiselle St.
Sillery, however, made a remark which I must not pass over. "You must
not," said this lady, "necessarily infer the misery of our peasantry,
because you see them in such unfit habitations. When you compare the
French poor, with the poor in your own country, you must take all
circumstances with you. When you see the French peasantry so ill lodged,
and so scantily clad, you must bring into your view at the same time the
difference of the climate. Here, the same sun which now shines upon us,
shines on us the whole year round; our rains are short, and all confined
to their season; we know nothing of the northern damps: a piece of
muslin or fine linen hung in one of those caves for six months, would be
dry and unsullied when removed. Those caves, moreover, bad as they are,
belong to their inhabitants; the property is their own. Can your
peasantry say the same? Believe me, Monsieur, there are many very happy,
aye and very lovely faces, under those turf dwellings."

We reached Amboise in good time, and as we intended leaving it on the
following morning, Mr. Younge and myself walked over the town, in the
interval between dinner and tea. The ladies reserved themselves for the
promenade, which in the provincial towns usually begins at seven, and
continues till nine.

Amboise, like all the towns on the Loire, is very pleasantly situated,
but has nothing in its structure to recommend it to particular notice.
It consists of two streets and a chateau. Before the Revolution it was