If you were to meet that lady in a
village walk, she would think herself very ill treated, if you had not a
compliment on your tongue, and at least the appearance of a sentiment in
your heart."
Several waggons of the country passed us; their construction was
awkward to a degree. The French are very far behind the English in the
ingenuity of the lower order of their artisans. A French watchmaker
usually exceeds an English one; but a French blacksmith, a French
carpenter, are as infinitely inferior. The things in common use are
execrable: not a window that shuts close, not a door that fits; every
thing clumsy, rough hewn, and as if made by Robinson Crusoe and his man
Friday.
We reached St. Valier to sleep. It is a small town, but prettily
situated, and the environs fertile, highly cultivated, and naturally
beautiful. The landlord of the inn was a true Boniface; he had nothing
of the Frenchman but his civility to the ladies. In assisting Mrs.
Younge from the carriage, he contrived it so awkwardly that he fell on
his back, and pulled the lady upon him; the matter, however, was a mere
trifle to a Frenchwoman, and had no other effect but to raise her
colour. If there are any ladies in a carriage, it is the invariable
privilege of the French hosts that they hand them from their seats.
Boniface, however, compensated his personal awkwardness by setting
before us an excellent supper; indeed, the farther we travelled, the
cheaper and the better became our fare. The hostess was likewise a true
character: she made some observations so free, and even indelicate, in
the hearing of the ladies, as in some degree confounded me. But modesty
is certainly no part of the virtues of a Frenchwoman.
My bed-chamber was scented with orange trees which occupied one end of
the room. The hostess herself came up to wish me good night, and to
express her compassion for Mademoiselle St. Sillery and me, because
truly, not being married together, we were obliged to sleep separate,
though so near each other. It came very strongly into my mind, that she
had been making a similar observation to Mademoiselle. The French women
certainly talk with a freedom which would startle an English or American
female. With the greatest possible _sang froid_ they will seat
themselves on the side of the bed, and remain in conversation with you
till they have fairly seen you in. They seem indeed to consider this
office as a matter of course. They enter your chamber at
|