all times with
equal freedom; and if there happen to be two or more filles-de-chambre,
they will very coolly seat themselves and converse together. There is
indeed but one invariable rule in France, and that is, that a
fille-de-chambre is company for an emperor.

Being very tired, I had slept sounder than usual, when I was called by
the landlady, accompanied by Mademoiselle St. Sillery. The latter indeed
remained at the door of the apartment, but the good-humoured boisterous
landlady awoke me with some violence by a toss of the clothes. "Rise,
Monsieur," said she, "and attend your mistress through the town; she
wants a walk. Shame upon a chevalier to sleep, whilst so much beauty is
awake!" I have translated literally, that I may give an idea of that
tone of compliment, and even of language, which characterizes the French
men and women, in speaking to or of each other. Mademoiselle St.
Sillery, in the course of our journey, was as warmly complimented for
her beauty by the women as by the gentlemen. One woman in particular,
and an elderly one, embraced her with a kind of rapture, saying at the
same time, that she was as lovely as an angel. This extravagance of the
women towards each other is peculiar to France, or at least I have never
seen it elsewhere.

As the morning was delightful, we resolved, much to the discontent of
the landlady, to reach Thein to breakfast. The horses were accordingly
ordered, and after much reluctance, and some grumbling, we procured
them, and departed.

The road was continually on the ascent, and in every mile opened the
most lovely prospects. The trees in this part of France are uncommonly
beautiful; and where there are any meadows, as along the banks of the
rivers, they are adorned with the sweetest flowers, which here grow
wild, and attain a more than garden-sweetness and brilliancy. The birds,
moreover, were singing merrily, and all Nature seemed animate and gay. I
felt truly happy, and Mademoiselle St. Sillery was in such life and
spirits, that it was not without difficulty that we detained her in her
seat.

Thein, where we breakfasted, was the Teyna of the Romans: it is
delightfully situated at the bottom of an hill, called the Hermitage,
and celebrated over all Europe and the world for its rich wines. The
soil on which these vineyards grow is a very light loam, supported by a
pan of granite, in which it resembles what is denominated in England the
Norfolk soil. Another hill on the