. C. JENSEN _of the Imperial Chinese
Telegraphs._

THE AUTHOR IN WESTERN CHINA _Frontispiece._

THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE PASSPORT _page_ 8

ON A BALCONY IN WESTERN CHINA 14

THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA 34

MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN 34

CHUNGKING, FROM THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE YANGTSE 38

A TEMPLE THEATRE IN CHUNGKING 44

ON THE MAIN ROAD TO SUIFU 52

CULTIVATION IN TERRACES 58

SCENE IN SZECHUEN 58

OPIUM-SMOKING 72

A TEMPLE IN SZECHUEN 84

LAOWATAN 84

THE OPIUM-SMOKER OF ROMANCE 93

PAGODA BY THE WAYSIDE, WESTERN CHINA 118

THE BIG EAST GATE OF YUNNAN CITY 146

VIEW IN YUNNAN CITY 156

SOLDIERS ON THE WALL OF YUNNAN CITY 168

THE PAGODA OF YUNNAN CITY, 250 FEET HIGH 174

THE VICEROY OF TWO PROVINCES 180

THE AUTHOR'S CHINESE NAME 182

THE GIANT OF YUNNAN 184

THE "EAGLE NEST BARRIER," ON THE ROAD TO TALIFU 192

SNOW-CLAD MOUNTAINS BEHIND TALIFU 204

MEMORIAL IN A TEMPLE NEAR TALIFU 220

THE DESCENT TO THE RIVER MEKONG 232

INSIDE VIEW OF A SUSPENSION BRIDGE 236

THE RIVER SALWEEN 240

THE RIVER SHWELI AND ITS SUSPENSION BRIDGE 242

THE SUBURB BEYOND THE SOUTH GATE OF TENGYUEH 250

CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING 292

ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA _at end._

AN AUSTRALIAN IN CHINA.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY--MAINLY ABOUT MISSIONARIES AND THE CITY OF HANKOW.

In the first week of February, 1894, I returned to Shanghai from Japan.
It was my intention to go up the Yangtse River as far as Chungking, and
then, dressed as a Chinese, to