ne
man.

In the afternoon we were at Feng-tu-hsien, a flourishing river port, one
of the principal outlets of the opium traffic of the Upper Yangtse. Next
day we were at Fuchou, the other opium port, whose trade in opium is
greater still than that of Feng-tu-hsien. It is at the junction of a
large tributary--the Kung-t'-an-ho, which is navigable for large vessels
for more than two hundred miles. Large numbers of the Fuchou junks were
moored here, which differ in construction from all other junks on the
river Yangtse in having their great sterns twisted or wrung a quarter
round to starboard, and in being steered by an immense stern sweep, and
not by the balanced rudder of an ordinary junk.

The following day, after a long day's work, we moored beyond the town of
Chang-show-hsien. Here I paid the laoban 2000 cash, whereupon he paid
his men something on account, and then blandly suggested a game of
cards. He was fast winning back his money, when I intervened and bade
them turn in, as I wished to make an early start in the morning. The
river seemed to get broader, deeper, and more rapid as we ascended; the
trackers, on the contrary, became thinner, narrower, and more decrepit.

On March 8th, our fourteenth day out, disaster nearly overtook us when
within a day's sail of our destination. Next day we reached Chungking
safely, having done by some days the fastest journey on record up the
Yangtse rapids. My captain and his young crew had finished the journey
within the time agreed upon.

[Illustration: THE RIVER YANGTSE AT TUNG-LO-HSIA.]

[Illustration: MEMORIAL ARCHWAY AT THE FORT OF FU-TO-KUAN.]

CHAPTER IV.

THE CITY OF CHUNGKING--THE CHINESE CUSTOMS--THE FAMOUS MONSIEUR HAAS,
AND A FEW WORDS ON THE OPIUM FALLACY.

After passing through the gorge known as Tung-lo-hsia ten miles from
Chungking, the laoban tried to attract my attention, calling me from my
crib and pointing with his chin up the river repeating "Haikwan one
piecee," which I interpreted to mean that there was an outpost of the
customs here in charge of one white man; and this proved to be the case.
The customs kuatze or houseboat was moored to the left bank; the
Imperial Customs flag floated gaily over an animated collection of
native craft. We drew alongside the junk and an Englishman appeared at
the window.

"Where from?" he asked, laconically.

"Australia."

"The devil, so am I. What part?"

"Victoria."

"So am I. Town?"

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