a large and wealthy province of the
same name, is a thriving place, sending out valuable cargoes,
principally of sugar and cotton. I had loaded costly cargoes here, times
gone by. I met my old merchant again this time, but could not carry his
goods on the _Liberdade_. However, fruits from his orchards and a run
among the trees refreshed my crew, and prepared them for the coming
voyage to Barbadoes, which was made with expedition.

From Pernambuco we experienced a strong current in our favour, with,
sometimes, a confused cross sea that washed over us considerably. But
the swift current sweeping along through it all made compensation for
discomforts of motion, though our "ups and downs" were many. Along this
part of the coast (from Pernambuco to the Amazon), if one day should be
fine, three stormy ones would follow, but the gale was always fair,
carrying us forward at a goodly rate.

Along about half way from Cape St. Roque to the Amazon, the wind which
had been blowing hard for two days, from E.S.E., and raising lively
waves all about, increased to a gale that knocked up seas, washing over
the little craft more than ever. The thing was becoming monotonous and
tiresome; for a change, therefore, I ran in toward the land, so as to
avoid the ugly cross sea farther out in the current. This course was a
mistaken one; we had not sailed far on it when a sudden rise of the
canoe, followed by an unusually long run down on the slope of a roller,
told us of a danger that we hardly dared to think of, then a mighty
comber broke, but, as Providence willed, broke short of the canoe, which
under shortened sail was then scudding very fast.

We were on a shoal, and the sea was breaking from the bottom! The second
great roller came on, towering up, up, up, until nothing longer could
support the mountain of water, and it seemed only to pause before its
fall to take aim and surely gather us up in its sweeping fury.

I put the helm a-lee; there was nothing else to do but this, and say
prayers. The helm hard down, brought the canoe round, bows to the
danger, while in breathless anxiety we prepared to meet the result as
best we could. Before we could say "Save us, or we perish," the sea
broke over with terrific force and passed on, leaving us trembling in
His hand, more palpably helpless than ever before. Other great waves
came madly on, leaping toward destruction; how they bellowed over the
shoal! I could smell the slimy bottom of the sea, w