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January. _Neck and Shoulder of Venison_,--(No. 64.) Are to be managed in the same way as the haunch; only they do not require the coat or paste, and will not take so much time. The best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through it, and put the spit between the skewers and the bones. _A Fawn_,--(No. 65.) Like a sucking-pig, should be dressed almost as soon as killed. When very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted the same way as a hare: but they are better eating when of the size of a house lamb, and are then roasted in quarters; the hind-quarter is most esteemed. They must be put down to a very quick fire, and either basted all the time they are roasting, or be covered with sheets of fat bacon; when done, baste it with butter, and dredge it with a little salt and flour, till you make a nice froth on it. N.B. We advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon as they receive it, and then make a hash of it like No. 528. Send up venison sauce with it. See the preceding receipt, or No. 344, &c. _A Kid._--(No. 65*.) A young sucking-kid is very good eating; to have it in prime condition, the dam should be kept up, and well fed, &c. Roast it like a fawn or hare. _Hare._--(No. 66.) "_Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus._"--MARTIAL. The first points of consideration are, how old is the hare? and how long has it been killed? When young, it is easy of digestion, and very nourishing; when old, the contrary in every respect. To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the forefoot; you will find a small knob, if it is a leveret, which disappears as it grows older; then examine the ears, if they tear easily, it will eat tender; if they are tough, so will be the hare, which we advise you to make into soup (No. 241), or stew or jug it (No. 523). When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows stale, it becomes limp. As soon as you receive a hare, take out the liver, parboil it, and keep it for the stuffing; some are very fond of it. Do not use it if it be not quite fresh and good. Some mince it, and send it up as a garnish in little hillocks round the dish. Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the inside with pepper, and hang it up in a dry, cool place. Paunch and skin[141-*] your hare, wash it, and lay it in a large pan of cold water four or five hours, changing the water two or three times; lay it in a clean cloth, and dry it well, then truss it. To make the stuff
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