written before the establishment of Albion house,
Aldersgate Street, where every luxury that nature and art produce is
served of the primest quality, and in the most scientific manner, in a
style of princely magnificence and perfect comfort: the wines, liqueurs,
&c. are superlative, and every department of the business of the
banquet is conducted in the most liberal manner.

The French author whom we have before so often quoted, assures _les
amateurs de bonne chere_ on the other side of the water, it is well
worth their while to cross the channel to taste this favourite English
dish, which, when "_mortifiee a son point_" and well dressed, he says,
is superior to most of the subtle double relishes of the Parisian
kitchen. _Almanach des Gourmands_, vol. i. p. 27.

Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal food, and is
entitled to the same rank among solid, that brandy is among liquid
stimuli.

The celebrated TRAINER, Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny Park, Bart., in his
book on _Wrestling_, 4to. 3d edit. 1727, p. 10, &c., greatly prefers
beef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he called those who ate mutton.

When Humphries the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, the keeper of
Ipswich jail, he was at first fed on beef, but got so much flesh, it was
changed for mutton, roasted or broiled: when broiled, great part of the
nutritive juices of the meat is extracted.

The principles upon which training[153-*] is conducted, resolve
themselves into temperance without abstemiousness, and exercise without
fatigue.

_Kidneys._--(No. 95.)

Cut them through the long way, score them, sprinkle a little pepper and
salt on them, and run a wire skewer through them to keep them from
curling on the gridiron, so that they may be evenly broiled.

Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till they are
done; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, if the fire is brisk:
or fry them in butter, and make gravy for them in the pan (after you
have taken out the kidneys), by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour; as
soon as it looks brown, put in as much water as will make gravy; they
will take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For sauce, Nos. 318,
355, and 356.

_Obs._ Some cooks chop a few parsley-leaves very fine, and mix them with
a bit of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and put a little of
this mixture on each kidney.

_A Fowl or Rabbit, &c._--(No. 97.)

We can only recommend this method of dressing when