a handful of salt in it;
let them rather simmer than boil; a small mackerel will be done enough
in about a quarter of an hour; when the eye starts and the tail splits,
they are done; do not let them stand in the water a moment after; they
are so delicate that the heat of the water will break them.

This fish, in London, is rarely fresh enough to appear at table in
perfection; and either the mackerel is boiled too much, or the
roe[183-+] too little. The best way is to open a slit opposite the
middle of the roe, you can then clean it properly; this will allow the
water access, and the roe will then be done as soon as the fish, which
it seldom is otherwise; some sagacious gourmands insist upon it they
must be taken out and boiled separately. For sauce, see Nos. 263, 265,
and 266; and you may garnish them with pats of minced fennel.

N.B. The common notion is, that mackerel are in best condition when
fullest of roe; however, the fish at that time is only valuable for its
roe, the meat of it has scarcely any flavour.

Mackerel generally make their appearance off the Land's End about the
beginning of April; and as the weather gets warm they gradually come
round the coast, and generally arrive off Brighton about May, and
continue for some months, until they begin to shoot their spawn.

After they have let go their roes, they are called shotten mackerel, and
are not worth catching; the roe, which was all that was good of them,
being gone.

It is in the early season, when they have least roe, that the flesh of
this fish is in highest perfection. There is also an after-season, when
a few fine large mackerel are taken, (_i. e._ during the herring season,
about October,) which some piscivorous epicures are very partial to;
these fish having had time to fatten and recover their health, are full
of high flavour, and their flesh is firm and juicy: they are commonly
called silver mackerel, from their beautiful appearance, their colour
being almost as bright when boiled as it was the moment they were
caught.

_Mackerel broiled._--(No. 169.)

Clean a fine large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and cut a long slit
down the back; lay it on a clean gridiron, over a very clear, slow fire;
when it is done on one side, turn it; be careful that it does not burn;
send it up with fennel sauce (No. 265); mix well together a little
finely minced fennel and parsley, seasoned with a little pepper and
salt, a bit of fresh butter, and when