review the various members of the society of which he
is to be, _nolens volens_, a member; and the feverish interest which
directed his glance of rapid scrutiny towards those in particular of the
said members with whom he was to be exposed to more immediate contact,
and at the mercy of whose birth and education, habits, opinions,
prejudices, qualities, and propensities, his happiness and comfort were
to be placed during so large and uninterrupted a period of his
existence,--will comprehend my gratitude to these fair _emigrees_, whose
lively conversation shortened the length of each day, adding to the
charms of the magnificent scenery by the opportunity they afforded of a
congenial interchange of impressions. Although we did not occupy the
same compartment of the carriage, their party requiring the entire
interior and _rotonde_, we always renewed acquaintance when a prolonged
ascent afforded an opportunity of liberating our limbs from their
confinement.

The two daily repasts also would have offered no charm, save that of the
Basque _cuisine_,--which, although cleanly and solid, is not perfectly
_cordon bleu_,--but for the entertaining conversation of my fair
fellow-travellers, who had treasured up in their memory the best sayings
and doings of Arnal, and the other Listons and Yateses of the French
capital, which, seasoned with a slight Spanish accent, were
indescribably _piquants_ and original. My regret was sincere on our
respective routes diverging at Burgos; for they proceeded by the direct
line over the Somo sierra to Madrid, while I take the longer road by the
Guadarramas, in order to visit Valladolid. I shall not consequently make
acquaintance with the northern approach to Madrid, unless I return
thither a second time; as to that of my fellow-travellers, I should be
too fortunate were it to be renewed during my short stay in their
capital.

LETTER IV.

ARRIVAL AT BURGOS. CATHEDRAL.

Burgos.

The chain of the Lower Pyrenees, after the ascent from the French side,
and a two days' journey of alternate mountain and valley, terminates on
the Spanish side at almost its highest level. A gentle descent leads to
the plain of Vitoria; and, after leaving behind the fresh-looking,
well-farmed environs of that town, there remains a rather monotonous
day's journey across the bare plains of Castile, only varied by the
passage through a gorge of about a mile in extent, called the Pass of
Pancorbo, throughout which