to circulation and purity of atmosphere, although the difference
of climate would seem to recommend to each of the two countries the
system pursued by the other. The humidity of the atmosphere in England
would be the principal obstacle to cleanliness and salubrity, had the
towns a more compact mode of construction; whilst in Spain, on the
contrary, this system is advantageous as a protection against the
excessive power of the summer sun, which would render our wide
streets--bordered by houses too low to afford complete shade--not only
almost impassable, but uninhabitable.

The Plaza of Burgos (entitled "de la Constitucion," or "de Isabel II.,"
or "del Duque de la Victoria," or otherwise, according to the government
of the day,) has always been the resort of commerce. The projecting
first-floors being supported by square pillars, a sort of bazaar is
formed under them, which includes all the shop population of the city,
and forms an agreeable lounge during wet or too sunny weather.
Throughout the remainder of the town, with the exception of the modern
row of buildings above mentioned, almost all the houses are entered
through Gothic doorways, surmounted by armorial bearings sculptured in
stone, which, together with their ornamental inner courts and
staircases, testify to their having sheltered the chivalry of Old
Castile. The Cathedral, although by no means large, appears to fill half
the town; and considering that, in addition to its conspicuous and
inviting aspect, it is the principal remaining monument of the ancient
wealth and grandeur of the province, and one of the most beautiful
edifices in Europe, I will lose no time in giving you a description of
it.

This edifice, or at least the greater portion of it, dates from the
thirteenth century. The first stone was laid by Saint Ferdinand, on the
20th of July 1221. Ferdinand had just been proclaimed king by his mother
Dona Berenguela, who had invested him with his sword at the royal
convent of the Huelgas, about a mile distant from Burgos. Don Mauricio,
Bishop of Burgos, blessed the armour as the youthful king girded it,
and, three days subsequently to the ceremony, he united him to the
Princess Beatrice, in the church of the same convent. This bishop
assisted in laying the first stone of the cathedral, and presided over
the construction of the entire body of the building, including half of
the two principal towers.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE CHOIR.]

His tomb