oks large; but is found, on nearer
approach, to be a straggling edifice of one story only.

It is a modern inn, and differs in some essential points from the
ancient Spanish _posada_,--perfect specimens of which are met with at
Briviesca and Burgos. In these the vestibule is at the same time a
cow-shed, sheepfold, stable, pigsty,--in fact, a spacious Noah's Ark, in
which are found specimens of all living animals, that is, of all sizes,
down to the most minute; but for the purification of which it would be
requisite that the entire flood should pass within, instead of on its
outside. The original ark, moreover, possessed the advantage of windows,
the absence of which causes no small embarrassment to those who have to
thread so promiscuous a congregation, in order to reach the staircase;
once at the summit of which, it must be allowed, one meets with
cleanliness, and a certain degree of comfort.

The Venta de Juanilla, on the Somo Sierra, is a newish, clean-looking
habitation, especially the interior, where one meets with an excellent
supper, and may feast the eyes on the sight of a printed card, hanging
on the wall of the dining-room, announcing that luxury of exotic
gastronomy--Champagne--at three crowns a bottle: none were bold enough
that evening to ask for a specimen.

There is less of the exotic in the bed-room arrangements; in fact, the
building appears to have been constructed by the Diligence proprietors
to meet the immediate necessity of the occasion. The Madrid road being
served by two Diligences, one, leaving the capital, meets at this point,
on its first night, the other, which approaches in the contrary
direction. In consequence of this arrangement, the edifice is provided
with exactly four dormitories,--two male, and two female.

Nor is this the result of an intention to diminish the numbers quartered
in each male or female apartment; on the contrary, two rooms would have
answered the purpose better than four, but for the inconvenience and
confusion which would have arisen from the denizens of the Diligence
destined to start at a later hour being aroused from their slumbers, and
perhaps induced to depart by mistake, at the signal for calling the
travellers belonging to the earlier conveyance,--the one starting at two
o'clock in the morning, and the other at three.

On the occasion of my _bivouaque_ in this curious establishment, an
English couple, recently married, happened to be among the number of my