side of the precipice beneath me. In following that direction, the
first object at all prominent was the gate leading to Madrid--a cluster
of half Arab embattled towers and walls, standing somewhat to the left
at the bottom of the descent. These gave issue to the track mentioned in
my journey, and which could now be traced straight in front, to a
considerable distance.

The ground rises slightly beyond the gates of the town, and preserves a
moderate elevation all across the view, retreating right and left, so as
to offer the convex side of the arc of an immense circle. This formation
gives to the view a valley, extending on either side, shut in on the
left by mountains at a distance of four miles; while to the east it
extends as far as the eye can reach,--some mountains, scarcely
perceptible, crossing it at the horizon. The Tagus advances down the
eastern valley from Aranjuez; which chateau is in view at the distance
of twenty-eight miles, and approaching with innumerable zigzags to the
foot of the town, suddenly forms a curve, and, dashing into the rocks,
passes round the back of the city, issues again into the western valley,
and, after another sharp turn to the left, resumes the same direction
as before. All this tract of country owes to the waters of the Tagus a
richness of vegetation, and a bright freshness nowhere surpassed. So
much for the distant view.

To judge of the nearer appearance of the town, I crossed the bridge of
Alcantara, placed at the entrance of the eastern valley, and leading to
Aranjuez. The situation may be described in a few words. Toledo stands
on an eminence nearly circular in its general form. It is a mass of
jagged rock, almost perpendicular on all its sides. The river flows
rather more than half round it, descending from the east, and passing
round its southern side. The left or south bank is of the same
precipitous formation; but, instead of presenting that peculiarity
during only a short distance, it continues so both above and below the
town; while on the opposite side the only high ground is the solitary
mass of rock selected, whether with a view to defence or to
inconvenience, for the position of this ancient city. The Tagus is
crossed by two bridges, one at each extremity of the semi-circle
described by it round the half of the town. These bridges are both
highly picturesque, from their form no less than their situation. They
are raised upon arches of a height so disproportionate to