"If it wasn't for the fog we
should see a light from the tall tower which now stands on the rock,
bright and red alternately. Once upon a time there was no tower there;
but there was a bell fixed on a buoy, and as the waves beat against it,
it tolled without ceasing; but I have heard say that there was a pirate,
who used to cruise in those seas, who cut the bell off; but not long
after, when making for Dundee, during a dark night and a heavy gale, he
ran his ship on it, and was lost with all his men--a judgment on him for
his evil deeds."

The wind dropping altogether, we lay becalmed, within the sound of the
bell, until morning broke and the fog lifted, when we saw the tower just
ahead of us. The centre part of the building was coloured white, and
could scarcely be seen against the sky; but the lower part, which was
dark, and the lantern, which was in shadow, were perfectly visible. We
pulled towards it; and as we approached we saw the rocks on which the
lighthouse stands rising ten feet or more above the water. Iron ladders
were fixed for landing, and by a gun-metal ladder we were able to reach
the entrance port. The head keeper came down and received us cordially.
As in other lighthouses, the first story is used for storing coal; the
second for water; the next for oil; and the next for bedrooms, with
berths for six persons. Above it is the kitchen, and above that the
sitting-room, in which we saw a bust of Stevenson, the engineer. The
light is revolving, and has five reflectors, on each of which are two
faces, one red and one white. The red colour is produced by chimneys of
red glass. The keeper told us that four men belonged to the lighthouse,
that they are all married, but that three only were on duty. As at the
other lighthouses, birds are occasionally killed by flying against the
glasses.

Soon after we left the Bell Rock, the wind freshening from the
southward, we stood on for Dundee, from which it is about five and
twenty miles distant. We passed through the narrow entrance of the
Firth of Tay, with Broughty Castle on our right, beyond which we came
off Dundee, standing on the northern shore, and rising on a gentle
declivity from the water's edge, towards a high hill called the Law.
The estuary here is nearly two miles wide. A number of vessels were at
anchor, while the docks seen beyond the quays were full of shipping.
Dundee has a handsome appearance, with its broad streets and fine stone
hous