discountenanced in
the streets. Their affability, cheerfulness and hospitality are
remarkable, as well as frugality and temperance in food and drink, and
honesty in the payment of debt. Their cupidity is mitigated by
generosity; their natural indolence by the necessity, especially among
the peasantry, to work hard to gain a livelihood. Egyptians, however,
are as a rule suspicious of all not of their own creed and country.
Murders and other grave crimes are rare, but petty larcenies are very
common.

The amusements of the people are generally not of a violent kind,
being in keeping with their sedentary habits and the heat of the
climate. The bath is a favourite resort of both sexes and all classes.
They are acquainted with chess, draughts, backgammon, and other games,
among which is one peculiar to themselves, called Mankalah, and played
with cowries. Notwithstanding its condemnation by Mahomet, music is
the most favourite recreation of the people; the songs of the boatmen,
the religious chants, and the cries in the streets are all musical.
There are male and female musical performers; the former are both
instrumental and vocal, the latter (called _'Almeh_, pl. _'Awalim_)
generally vocal. The 'Awalim are, as their name ("learned") implies,
generally accomplished women, and should not be confounded with the
Ghawazi, or dancing-girls. There are many kinds of musical
instruments. The music, vocal and instrumental, is generally of little
compass, and in the minor key; it is therefore plaintive, and strikes
a European ear as somewhat monotonous, though often possessing a
simple beauty, and the charm of antiquity, for there is little doubt
that the favourite airs have been handed down from remote ages. The
Ghawazi (sing. Ghazia) form a separate class, very similar to the
gipsies. They intermarry among themselves only, and their women are
professional dancers. Their performances are often objectionable and
are so regarded by many Egyptians. They dance in public, at fairs and
religious festivals, and at private festivities, but, it is said, not
in respectable houses. Mehemet Ali banished them to Esna, in Upper
Egypt; and the few that remained in Cairo called themselves 'Awalim,
to avoid punishment. Many of the dancing-girls of Cairo to-day are
neither 'Awalim nor Ghawazi, but women of the very lowest class whose
performances are both ungraceful and indecent