and
entertained me the while with a narrative of how the horrible Yankees
had entered their great city--for they were cockneys, these ladies, and
merely rusticating at their retreat--and their dreadful fears, and the
horror they would undergo in case the invasion extended to Tepetiltan.
My guide, who had been industriously eating a bowl of beans, using an
original spoon like to a diminutive scoop--made in a jiffy from his
tortillas--and swallowing beans and spoon at every mouthful, thereby
putting himself to the trouble of reconstructing another at each
succeeding bite--he, I say, informed my good hostesses that I was one of
those _demonios Yankees_. _Ay! dios!_ said the elder; _es possible que
vd es gringo?_--can it be true that you are a green-horn? _Si amiga_, I
responded. Then their curiosity was interested to know my destination,
religious impressions, and so forth--if I was a _herege_? And being
assured that I was a Christian catholic, could make the cross, and name
more saints than they could, their good humor returned, and we made the
old trees merry with laughter, chatting away the hours, seated upon the
velvet sward. Still there appeared no indication of horses, and when
beginning to despair, an individual saluted us, and I noticed him
privately telegraphing my guide as to the probable amount the _gringo_
could be cheated! when turning to me, with a resolute air, he exclaimed,
_Tengo caballos hasta Tida a ocha pesos cada uno!_ This was a triple
extortion, but, very much to his astonishment, I immediately closed the
bargain: upon which, he darted a disappointed look upon his coadjutor,
in not having been signalized to charge more, and then drew forth his
beasts from behind the garden wall. I had to be cheated, and there was
no necessity of losing one's temper. I kissed the ladies--I say it with
modest pride--and pursued my route.

I came on smoothly and peaceably the remainder of the day and during the
night, until towards daybreak, when, to keep my eyes open, I took a
refreshing dip in the little river Tula. On attempting to mount again,
accidentally placing a hand on the horse's rump, he very unceremoniously
struck me with both heels on the thigh. I was hurled some yards, and
fell senseless. My guide dragged me again to the stream, and I suppose
his novel mode of treatment had the happy effect of restoring me to
animation; for I partly recovered consciousness with my head beneath the
water, in what I thought