ther rites of Islamism, and for this reason the greater
part of the population of Soudan, who profess Mohammedanism, are still
pagans in heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose to
ascetic practices without some moral motive, such as that which
sustained the Muslims at their first brilliant start in the world.

[17] See pp. 211 and 218. Probably the second Tree of Death
described was in reality only a fetish tree.--ED.

A Tuarick came this morning and said the devil was in his head, and that
he wanted some medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic of
tartarised antimony, which I hope served his purpose.

N.B. The news of the Sarkee having "eaten up" four countries of Korgum
is confirmed to-day.

The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here. The kibab cook makes
a conical hillock of dust and ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of
this mound he plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number of
little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between this circular
forest, and the sticks are twisted round from time to time, so that
every part may be well roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough,
five or six cowries a stick.

The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings. I went to the garden of
the Shereef. The vegetation does not look very flourishing in this
season. The Shereef has planted some horse-beans; "the only beans of the
kind," says the gardener, "in all the territories of Bornou."

_31st._--The weather is increasingly cool; therm. at sunrise, 50 deg.. The
atmosphere of Zinder never clears up. I was awakened this morning,
before daylight, by the cries of "Fire!" A fire of huts was raging close
upon us. This is the third accident of this kind which has taken place
during the sixteen days we have been here. The people take them, as a
matter of course, with Californian indifference, and it is likely that
there are two or three fires every ten days.

A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis) called to see me. He says the
English (Americans) now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum, wadas,
guns, and many other things, to Niffee, which afterwards are sent up to
Kanou. The slave-trade, therefore, must thrive here; and we get the
credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is carried on speak our
language.

A great fighi called also to-day to explain any dreams which I might
require the interpretation of, bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I
told him that last night I dr