urn them out, and
brown them in the oven: this is a pretty mode of serving, but it makes
them heavy. In whatever way they are sent to table, care must be taken
to have them quite free from lumps.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to boil the potatoes.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_,--1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE, or, Very Thin-mashed Potatoes.

1146. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow 1/4 pint of
good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, well drain them, and pound them smoothly in
a mortar, or beat them up with a fork; add the stock or broth, and rub
the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean saucepan
with the butter; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot, and it
will then be ready to serve. A puree should be rather thinner than
mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately broiled
mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the broth when the
latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which is often used for
ragouts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes rather thickly,
placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the centre. After
having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish should be wiped clean,
and the ragout or fricassee poured in.

_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to boil the potatoes; 6 or 7 minutes to warm the
puree.

_Average cost_, 4s. per bushel.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 lb. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: SWEET POTATO.]

VARIETIES OF THE POTATO.--These are very numerous. "They
differ," says an authority, "in their leaves and bulk of haulm;
in the colour of the skin of the tubers; in the colour of the
interior, compared with that of the skin; in the time of
ripening; in being farinaceous, glutinous, or watery; in tasting
agreeably or disagreeably; in cooking readily or tediously; in
the length of the subterraneous _stolones_ to which the tubers
are attached; in blossoming or not blossoming; and finally, in
the soil which they prefer." The earliest varieties grown in
fields are,--the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early Shaw, and
the Early Champion. This last is the most generally cultivated
round London: it is both mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is
but rarely eaten in Britain; but in America it is often served