let the
whole cool in the stewpan. When to be served, rewarm them, and drain
them on a clean cloth; then arrange them on a delicately white napkin,
that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the truffles, and
serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour gravies, stock,
sauces, &c.; and are an excellent addition to ragouts, made dishes of
fowl, &c.

_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_.--Not often bought in this country.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

THE TRUFFLE.--The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom.
It is certain that the truffle must possess, equally with other
plants, organs of reproduction; yet, notwithstanding all the
efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it
to a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth
under the earth, never appearing on the surface. They are found
in many parts of France: those of Perigord Magny are the most
esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the
species,--the black, the red, and the white: the latter are of
little value. The red are very rare, and their use is
restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its
consumption is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather
truffles, they take a pig with them to scent out the spot where
they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface with
his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truffles.
Good truffles are easily distinguished by their agreeable
perfume; they should be light in proportion to their size, and
elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection,
they should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably
diminished by any conserving process. Truffles are stimulating
and beating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty. Some of
the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more
digestible; but they should always be eaten sparingly. Their
chief use is in seasoning and garnitures. In short, a professor
has said, "Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes
that opulence can offer to the epicure." The Truffle grows in
clusters, some inches below the surface of the soil, and is of
an irregular globular form. Those which grow wild in England are
about the size of a hen's egg, and have no roots. As there is
nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been
trai