the sea, that universal
medium of connection amongst mankind. A guide, who had been sent with us
from Kingsburgh, explored the way (much in the same manner as, I
suppose, is pursued in the wilds of America,) by observing certain marks
known only to the inhabitants. We arrived at Dunvegan late in the
afternoon. The great size of the castle, which is partly old and partly
new, and is built upon a rock close to the sea, while the land around it
presents nothing but wild, moorish, hilly, and craggy appearances, gave
a rude magnificence to the scene. Having dismounted, we ascended a
flight of steps, which was made by the late Macleod, for the
accommodation of persons coming to him by land, there formerly being,
for security, no other access to the castle but from the sea; so that
visitors who came by the land were under the necessity of getting into a
boat, and sailed round to the only place where it could be approached.
We were introduced into a stately dining-room, and received by Lady
Macleod, mother of the laird, who, with his friend Talisker, having been
detained on the road, did not arrive till some time after us.

We found the lady of the house a very polite and sensible woman, who had
lived for some time in London, and had there been in Dr. Johnson's
company. After we had dined, we repaired to the drawing-room, where some
of the young ladies of the family, with their mother, were at tea[578].
This room had formerly been the bed-chamber of Sir Roderick Macleod, one
of the old Lairds; and he chose it, because, behind it, there was a
considerable cascade[579], the sound of which disposed him to sleep.
Above his bed was this inscription: 'Sir Rorie M'Leod of Dunvegan,
Knight. GOD send good rest!' Rorie is the contraction of Roderick. He
was called Rorie _More_, that is, great Rorie, not from his size, but
from his spirit. Our entertainment here was in so elegant a style, and
reminded my fellow-traveller so much of England, that he became quite
joyous. He laughed, and said, 'Boswell, we came in at the wrong end of
this island.' 'Sir, (said I,) it was best to keep this for the last.' He
answered, 'I would have it both first and last.'

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14.

Dr. Johnson said in the morning, 'Is not this a fine lady[580]?' There
was not a word now of his 'impatience to be in civilized
life[581];--though indeed I should beg pardon,--he found it here. We had
slept well, and lain long. After breakfast we surveyed the