in the same breath with the country about Rodwell in
Glocestershire. Nor are the trees of the same bulk and luxuriant foliage as
are those in our own country. A fine oak is as rare as an uncut _Wynkyn de
Worde_:[95] but creeping rivulets, rich coppice wood, avenues of elms and
limes, and meadows begemmed with butter-cups--these are the characteristics
of the country through which we were passing. It is in vain however you
look for neat villas or consequential farm houses: and as rarely do you see
groups of villagers reposing, or in action. A dearth of population gives to
French landscape a melancholy and solitary cast of character. It is in
cities that you must look for human beings--and _for_ cities the French
seem to have been created.

It was at _Troarn_, I think, or at some halting place beyond, that our
passports were demanded, and the examination of our trunks solicited. We
surrendered our keys most willingly. The gentlemen, with their cocked hats
and blue jackets--having a belt from which a sword was suspended--consulted
together for a minute only--returned our keys--and telling us that matters
would be thoroughly looked into at Caen, said they would give us no
trouble. We were of course not sorry at this determination--and the Messrs.
D---and myself getting once more into the cabriolet, (a postboy being
secured for the leaders) we began to screw up our spirits and curiosity for
a view of the steeples of CAEN. Unluckily the sun had set, and the horizon
had become gloomy, when we first discovered the spires of _St. Stephen's
Abbey_--the principal ecclesiastical edifice at Caen. It was hard upon nine
o'clock; and the evening being extremely dusky, we had necessarily a very
indistinct view of the other churches--but, to my eye, as seen in a
lengthened view, and through a deceitful atmosphere, Caen had the
appearance of OXFORD on a diminutive scale. The town itself, like our
famous University, is built in a slanting direction; though the surrounding
country is yet flatter than about Oxford. As we entered it, all the
population seemed collected to witness our arrival. From solitude we
plunged at once into tumult, bustle, and noise. We stopped at the _Hotel
d'Espagne--_a large, but black and begrimed mansion. Here our luggage was
taken down; and here we were assailed by garcons de place, with cards in
their hands, intreating us to put up at their respective hotels. We had
somehow got a recommendation to the _Hotel Royale