r, after an
acquaintance of twenty years with Lord Gifford, I can honestly say,
that, while his reputation as a Lawyer, and his advancement in his
profession, were only what his friends predicted, his character as a
MAN continued the same:--kind hearted, unaffected, gentle, and
generous. He died, 'ere he had attained his 48th year, in 1826.]

LETTER XIV.

BAYEUX. CATHEDRAL. ORDINATION OF PRIESTS AND DEACONS. CRYPT OF THE
CATHEDRAL.

_Bayeux, May 16_, 1818.

Two of the most gratifying days of my Tour have been spent at this place.
The Cathedral (one of the most ancient religious places of worship in
Normandy)[135] has been paced with a reverential step, and surveyed with a
careful eye. That which scarcely warmed the blood of Ducarel has made my
heart beat with an increased action; and although this town be even dreary,
as well as thinly peopled, there is that about it which, from associations
of ideas, can never fail to afford a lively interest to a British
antiquary.

The Diligence brought me here from Caen in about two hours and a half. The
country, during the whole route, is open, well cultivated, occasionally
gently undulating, but generally denuded of trees. Many pretty little
churches, with delicate spires, peeped out to the right and left during the
journey; but the first view of the CATHEDRAL of BAYEUX put all the others
out of my recollection. I was conveyed to the _Hotel de Luxembourg_, the
best inn in the town, and for a wonder rather pleasantly situated. Mine
hostess is a smart, lively, and shrewd woman; perfectly mistress of the art
and craft of innkeeping, and seems to have never known sorrow or
disappointment. Knowing that Mr. Stothard, Jun. had, the preceding year,
been occupied in making a fac-simile of the "famous tapestry" for our
Society of Antiquaries, I enquired if mine hostess had been acquainted with
that gentleman: "Monsieur," "je le connois bien; c'est un brave homme: il
demeura tout pres: aussi travailla-t-il comme quatre diables!" I will not
disguise that this eulogy of our amiable countryman[136] pleased me "right
well"--though I was pretty sure that such language was the current (and to
me somewhat _coarse_) coin of compliment upon all occasions: and instead of
"vin ordinaire" I ordered, rather in a gay and triumphant manner, "une
bouteille du vin de Beaune"--"Ah! ca," (replied the lively landlady,) "vous
le trouverez excellent, Monsieur, il n'y a pas du vin