; but I saw some very ancient
tomb-stones (one I think of the twelfth century) which had been removed
from the nave or side aisles, and were placed against the sides of the
north transept. The nave is entirely _walled up_ from the transepts, but
the choir is fortunately preserved; and a more perfect and interesting
specimen of its kind, of the same antiquity, is perhaps no where to be seen
in Normandy. All the monuments as well as the altars, described by Ducarel,
are now taken away. Having ascended a stone staircase, we got into the
upper part of the choir, above the first row of pillars--and walked along
the wall. This was rather adventurous, you will say: but a more adventurous
spirit of curiosity had nearly proved fatal to me: for, on quitting
daylight, we pursued a winding stone staircase, in our way to the central
tower--to enjoy from hence a view of the town. I almost tremble as I relate
it. There had been put up a sort of temporary wooden staircase, leading
absolutely to ... nothing: or, rather, to a dark void space. I happened to
be foremost in ascending, yet groping in the dark--with the guide luckily
close behind me. Having reached the topmost step, I was raising my foot to
a supposed higher or succeeding step ... but there was _none_. A depth of
eighteen feet at least was below me. The guide caught my coat, as I was
about to lose my balance--and roared out "Arretez--tenez!" The least
balance or inclination, one way or the other, is sufficient, upon these
critical occasions: when luckily, from his catching my coat, and pulling me
in consequence slightly backwards, my fall ... and my LIFE ... were equally
saved! I have reason from henceforth to remember the ABBAYE AUX DAMES at
Caen.

I gained the top of the central tower, which is not of equal altitude with
those of the western extremity, and from thence surveyed the town, as well
as the drizzling rain would permit. I saw enough however to convince me
that the site of this abbey is fine and commanding. Indeed it stands nearly
upon the highest ground in the town. Ducarel had not the glorious ambition
to mount to the top of the tower; nor did he even possess that most
commendable of all species of architectural curiosity, a wish to visit the
CRYPT. Thus, in either extremity--I evinced a more laudable spirit of
enterprise than did my old-fashioned predecessor. Accordingly, from the
summit, you must accompany me to the lowest depth of the building. I
descended by t