viour of the Englishman; and that my mistake served with him to
confirm the national reproach of bluntness, and ill breeding, under
which we lie in this country. The truth is, I was that day more than
usually peevish, from the bad weather, as well as from the dread of a
fit of the asthma, with which I was threatened: and I dare say my
appearance seemed as uncouth to him, as his travelling dress appeared
to me. I had a grey mourning frock under a wide great coat, a bob wig
without powder, a very large laced hat, and a meagre, wrinkled,
discontented countenance.
The fourth night of our journey we lay at Macon, and the next day
passed through the Lyonnois, which is a fine country, full of towns,
villages, and gentlemen's houses. In passing through the Maconnois, we
saw a great many fields of Indian corn, which grows to the height of
six or seven feet: it is made into flour for the use of the common
people, and goes by the name of Turkey wheat. Here likewise, as well as
in Dauphine, they raise a vast quantity of very large pompions, with
the contents of which they thicken their soup and ragouts.
As we travelled only while the sun was up, on account of my ill health,
and the post horses in France are in bad order, we seldom exceeded
twenty leagues a day.
I was directed to a lodging-house at Lyons, which being full they
shewed us to a tavern, where I was led up three pair of stairs, to an
apartment consisting of three paltry chambers, for which the people
demanded twelve livres a day: for dinner and supper they asked
thirty-two, besides three livres for my servant; so that my daily
expence would have amounted to about forty-seven livres, exclusive of
breakfast and coffee in the afternoon. I was so provoked at this
extortion, that, without answering one word, I drove to another
auberge, where I now am, and pay at the rate of two-and-thirty livres a
day, for which I am very badly lodged, and but very indifferently
entertained. I mention these circumstances to give you an idea of the
imposition to which strangers are subject in this country. It must be
owned, however, that in the article of eating, I might save half the
money by going to the public ordinary; but this is a scheme of
oeconomy, which (exclusive of other disagreeable circumstances) neither
my own health, nor that of my wife permits me to embrace. My journey
from Paris to Lyons, including the hire of the coach, and all expences
on the road, has cost me, within
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