monarch. Immediately
under the pierou is the physic garden, and near it an arcade just
finished for an aqueduct, to convey a stream of water to the upper
parts of the city. Perhaps I should have thought this a neat piece of
work, if I had not seen the Pont du Garde: but, after having viewed the
Roman arches, I could not look upon this but with pity and contempt. It
is a wonder how the architect could be so fantastically modern, having
such a noble model, as it were, before his eyes.

There are many protestants at this place, as well as at Nismes, and
they are no longer molested on the score of religion. They have their
conventicles in the country, where they assemble privately for worship.
These are well known; and detachments are sent out every Sunday to
intercept them; but the officer has always private directions to take
another route. Whether this indulgence comes from the wisdom and lenity
of the government, or is purchased with money of the commanding
officer, I cannot determine: but certain it is, the laws of France
punish capitally every protestant minister convicted of having
performed the functions of his ministry in this kingdom; and one was
hanged about two years ago, in the neighbourhood of Montauban.

The markets in Montpellier are well supplied with fish, poultry,
butcher's meat, and game, at reasonable rates. The wine of the country
is strong and harsh, and never drank, but when mixed with water.
Burgundy is dear, and so is the sweet wine of Frontignan, though made
in the neighbourhood of Cette. You know it is famous all over Europe,
and so are the liqueurs, or drams of various sorts, compounded and
distilled at Montpellier. Cette is the sea-port, about four leagues
from that city: but the canal of Languedoc comes up within a mile of
it; and is indeed a great curiosity: a work in all respects worthy of a
Colbert, under whose auspices it was finished. When I find such a
general tribute of respect and veneration paid to the memory of that
great man, I am astonished to see so few monuments of public utility
left by other ministers. One would imagine, that even the desire of
praise would prompt a much greater number to exert themselves for the
glory and advantage of their country; yet in my opinion, the French
have been ungrateful to Colbert, in the same proportion as they have
over-rated the character of his master. Through all France one meets
with statues and triumphal arches erected to Louis XIV, in con