same as before in its marvellous
beauty. I felt like a ghost among the shadows of all we had striven
for ten years ago.

The bazar, once full of Moslems, was half deserted. The
intransigence of the Serb officers was here as blatant as at Struga.
They were eagerly waiting the declaration of war on Bulgaria. And
would accept no form of arbitration that did not give all to
themselves. We spoke strongly of the wickedness of fighting their
allies. They said they cared for no treaty, and meant to fight--the
sooner the better. All they had taken they would soon Serbize. They
--the military--had the power, and would do what they chose.

That the policy was a deliberate one we now know from published
documents.

On February 4, 1913, the Serb Minister at Petersburg telegraphed:
"the Minister for Foreign Affairs told me Serbia was the only state
in the Balkans in which Russia had confidence, and that Russia would
do everything for Serbia." Serbia felt quite safe in tearing up her
Bulgarian "scrap of paper." The Serb officers were, in fact, most
explicit, and told us they had all their plans laid and expected
soon to be back in Durazzo, and to keep it.

So set were they on fighting Bulgaria that had the Bulgars waited
but a few hours the Serbs would probably have saved them the trouble
of firing the first shot. The whole guilt rests with Serbia, for it
was she who broke her pledged word and threw down the glove.

Kosovo Day was a melancholy spectacle. Nothing is more dolorous than
a people forced "to rejoice" by an army of occupation. All shops are
shut, and the population summoned to church to celebrate the
"freeing" of the land. Once how pleased I should have been. Now I
have seen and know too much! The people of Ochrida had to officially
rejoice that their nationality was destroyed, though it had survived
some six centuries of the Turk.

At Pogradech we again found the Serbs. Here the whole population is
Albanian. There was no doubt of their sentiments. They asked
anxiously as to the fate of their town, and dreaded lest the Serb
occupation should be permanent. Wanted news of free Albania, and
asked when the Prince would arrive. At the han, when paying for my
horse, I asked for Turkish money as change, for we were leaving the
Serb zone. The hanjee and those in the inn burst into sudden joy:
"Ah, she too does not want anything Serb!" I was alarmed lest a
prowling Serb should overhear and make them pay dearly for
patriotis