the _table-d'hote_ one at 5 francs, the cookery is of the
good solid bourgeois order, eight courses and a pint of wine for one's
money. In days long gone by there used to be this footnote to the _carte
du jour_ at Tortoni's, "Les hors-d'oeuvres ne se remplacent pas,"
which was translated for the benefit of the English, "The out-of-works
do not replace themselves." Tortoni's Hotel Restaurant must not be
confounded with the Brasserie Tortoni quite close to it, which is a
bachelor's resort; but which I, as a bachelor, have found very amusing
sometimes after dinner.

Frascati's Restaurant, an adjunct to the big hotel on the sea-shore, is
the "swagger" restaurant of the place, and many a man who has come over
by the midnight boat and has stayed for a bathe and a meal at Frascati's
before going on to Paris by the mid-day train has breakfasted there in
content. The _Ecrevisses Bordelaises_, the _Croutes aux Champignons_,
the _Salade Russe_ here have left me pleasant memories. In the winter
the _chef_ retires to Paris or elsewhere, and the restaurant is not to
be so thoroughly trusted; and sometimes when a crowd of passengers are
going across to Southampton by the night boat to catch an American
steamer, I have found the attendance very sketchy, owing to the waiters
having more work than they can do satisfactorily. The restaurant is in
the verandah facing the sea.

So much from my own experience. Other people with larger knowledge all
have a good word to say for Frascati's, but all a word of caution as to
its prices. It is wise to look at the price of the champagnes, for
instance, before giving an order. The official dinners at Havre are
always given at Frascati's, and it is here that the British colony holds
its annual banquet on the King's birthday. I append a menu of a dinner
of ceremony at Frascati's which, though it is miles too long, is a very
noble feast:--

Tortue claire a la Francaise.
Creme Du Barry.
Rissoles Lucullus.
Caisses de laitances Dieppoise.
Barbues dorees a la Vatel.
Selle de Chevreuil Nemrod.
Poularde du Mans Cambaceres.
Terrines d'Huitres a la Joinville.
Cailles de vigne braisees Parisienne.
Granites a l'Armagnac.
Faisans de Compiegne rotis.
Truffes au Champagne.
Salade Chrysantheme.
Pains de pointes d'Asperges a la Creme.
Turbans d'Ananas.