le diners with Ciro and the Paris and Grand, but I
cannot speak by personal knowledge of its dinners.

There are other restaurants not so expensive as the ones I have written
of, and further up the hill, which can give one a most admirable dinner.
The Helder is one of the restaurants where the men who have to live all
their life at Monte Carlo often breakfast and dine, and Aubanel's
Restaurant, the Princess', which one of the great stars of the Opera has
very regularly patronised, deserves a special good word. The Restaurant
Re, which was originally a fish and oyster shop, but which is now a
restaurant with fish as its speciality, is also an excellent place for
men of moderate means. Madame Re learned the art of the kitchen at the
Reserve at Marseilles, and she knows as much about the cooking of fish
as any woman in the world. When it came to my turn in the interchange
of dinners for six to provide a feast, I went to Madame Re and asked her
to give me a fish dinner, and to keep it as distinctive as possible of
the principality, and she at once saw what I wanted and entered into the
spirit of it. She met me on the evening of the feast with a sorrowful
expression on her handsome face, for she had sent a fisherman out very
early in the morning into the bay to catch some of the little sea
hedgehogs which were to form one course, but he had come back
empty-handed. The menu stood as under, and we none of us missed the
hedgehogs:--

Canape de Nonnats.
Soupe de poisson Monegasque.
Supions en Buisson.
Dorade Bonne Femme.
Volaille Rotie.
Langouste Parisienne.
Asperges Vinaigrette.
Dessert.

The _Soupe Monegasque_ had a reminiscence in it of _Bouillabaisse_, but
it was not too insistent; the _supions_ were octopi, but delicate little
gelatinous fellows, not leathery, as the Italian ones sometimes are; the
_dorade_ was a splendid fish, and though I fancy the _langouste_ had
come from northern waters and not from the bay, it was beautifully fresh
and a monster of its kind.

The Riviera Palace has a restaurant to which many people come to
breakfast, high above Monte Carlo and its heat, and the cook is a very
good one.

Any mad Englishman who like myself takes long walks in the morning, will
find the restaurant at the La Turbie terminus of the mountain railway a
pleasant place at which to eat early breakfast; and the view from the
terrace, where one munches o