Helder, the white building in the arcade of the big
Place, has good cookery, and its _table-d'hote_ meals are excellent.

On regatta days the world of fashion occupies all the tables of the
restaurant on the _jetee_ at breakfast-time.

Two resorts patronised by the young sparks of Nice are the Regence and
the Garden Bar. The subjoined menu shows what the Regence can do when a
big dinner is given there:--

Hors-d'oeuvre varies.
Consomme a la d'Orleans.
Bouchees Montglas.
Filets de soles Joinville.
Piece de boeuf Renaissance.
Chaud-froid de foie gras.
Petits pois a la Francaise.
Faisans de Boheme a la broche.
Salade nicoise.
Mousse Regence.
Patisserie. Dessert.

The great confectioner's shop in the Place Massena and the Casino
Municipal are always crowded with ladies at tea-time.

Beaulieu

At Beaulieu the Restaurant de la Reserve is famous. It is just a
convenient distance for a drive from Monte Carlo, and the world and the
half-world drive or motor out there from the town on the rock and sit at
adjacent tables in the verandah without showing any objection one to the
other. The restaurant is a little white building in a garden, with a
long platform built out over the sea, so that breakfasting one looks
right down upon a blue depth of water. There are tables inside the
building, but the early-comers and those wise people who have telephoned
for tables take those in the verandah if the day be sunny. There are
tanks into which the water runs in and out with each little wave and in
these are the Marennes oysters and other shell-fish. Oysters, a
_Mostelle a l'Anglaise_--Mostelle being the especial fish of this part
of the world--and some tiny bit of meat is the breakfast I generally
order at the Beaulieu Reserve; but the cook is capable of high flights,
and I have seen most elaborate meals well served. The proprietors are
two Italians who also own the neighbouring hotel, and who take their
cook with them to Aix-les-Bains when they migrate during the summer to
the restaurant of one of the casinos there. A little band of Italian
singers and musicians add to the noise of this very merry little
breakfasting place.

At Villefranche there are two unpretentious inns where men with an
unnatural craving for _Bouillabaisse_ go and eat it, and return with a
strong aroma of saffron and garlic accompanying them, saying that they
have partaken o