ught we could rest without
fear of discovery, we laid down our loads and tried to get a few hours'
sleep. At sunrise we were startled on finding our camp surrounded by a
band of robbers. Our friends of the previous night had followed our
tracks, and, mistaking us for Shoka traders, had now come for a little
pleasant robbery. On drawing near they were given a somewhat warm
reception. Their instant retreat was more speedy than dignified.

We wended our way along a narrow valley toward the shore of the Devil's
Lake, halting to cook our food about half a mile from the water's edge.
At this point I took observations for longitude, also the correct
elevation with boiling-point thermometers. Water boiled at 185 deg. with
the temperature of the atmosphere at 64 deg. Fahrenheit.

I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying flat in the sun, some
distance away from my men, when I thought I saw something move. Jumping
up, I caught sight of a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only
a few yards away from me, with the object, no doubt, of seizing my
rifle. He was not quick enough. All he got was a good pounding with the
butt of my Mannlicher. I recognized him; he was one of the brigands we
had seen in the morning. They had followed and spied us all along.
Having got over his first surprise and begged for mercy, the bandit,
with an amusing air of assumed innocence, requested us to go and spend
the night in his tent with him and his friends. They would treat us
right royally, he said. Being well acquainted with the hospitality of
robbers, we declined the invitation. The brigand went away somewhat
shaken and disappointed. We continued our journey along the edge of the
Devil's Lake. Hundreds of hares sprang all around us. So numerous were
they that I killed several with my rifle, using bullet cartridges. There
were signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of the lake
must have been much higher than it is at present.

Marching during the day, we encountered many Tibetans, some of whom were
Dogpas, others Jogpas, both nomad bands of robbers. When they saw us
approaching they generally fled, driving their sheep and yaks in front
of them. We came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty. Their faces were
smeared with black ointment, as a protection for the skin and to prevent
its cracking in the high wind. They were dressed in long sheepskin
garments, worn out and filthy. The shaggy hair was so unwashed that it
emitted