posite
direction to ours. They all seemed terrified when we approached them. We
obtained from them a few more pounds of food, but they refused to sell
us any sheep, of which they had thousands. I decided to attempt the
first-mentioned route. Making our way first over a continuation of the
flat plateau, then over undulating ground, we came to two lakelets at
the foot of the pass before us. The ascent was comparatively easy, over
snow. We followed the river, which descended from the pass. About
half-way up, on looking back, we saw eight soldiers galloping toward us.
We waited for them. As soon as they came up to us they went through the
usual servile salutations, depositing their weapons on the ground to
show that they had no intention of fighting. A long, amiable
conversation followed, the Tibetans professing their friendship for us
and their willingness to help us to get on in any way they could. This
was rather too good to be true. I suspected treachery, all the more so
when they pressed and entreated us to go back to their tents, where they
wished to entertain us as their highly honored guests. They would shower
upon us all the luxuries that human mind could conceive. These luxuries
were found to consist of presents of _chura_, cheese, butter, yak milk,
and _tsamba_. They said they would sell us ponies if we required them.
The description was too glowing. Taking all things into consideration,
and allowing for the inaccuracy of speech of Tibetans in general, I
thanked them from the bottom of my heart, and answered that I preferred
to continue my journey and bear my present sufferings.

They perceived that I was not easy to catch. If anything, they respected
me for it. In fact, they could not conceal their amazement at my having
got so far into their country with only two men. After giving my
visitors some little presents, we parted in a friendly manner.

We climbed up to the pass (18,480 feet). Before us, on the other side,
some two thousand feet lower, was a large stretch of flat land. I could
see a lake, which I took to be the Gunkyo. To make certain of it, I left
my men and yaks on the pass and went to reconnoitre from a peak 19,000
feet high north-east of us. There was much snow. The ascent was
difficult and tedious. When I got to the top another high peak barred
the view in front of me, so, descending first and then ascending again,
I climbed this second summit, finally reaching an elevation of 20,000
feet, and o