up to
that point. I believe that the lake was gradually receding.

Round the lake there were several tumbling-down sheds in charge of
Lamas. Only one important Gomba (monastery) and a temple were to be
seen--_viz._, at Tucker Village.

I was told that a small Gomba and _serai_ (resting-house for pilgrims),
in charge of Lamas, stood to the north-west of the lake, but I cannot
vouch for the accuracy of the statement, as I did not visit it myself,
and the information I received from Tibetans regarding its position and
importance was conflicting.

As the nature of the country suddenly changed between the Devil's Lake
and Mansarowar, so, too, the weather and the temperature greatly
changed. Over the Rakastal we invariably saw a lovely blue sky, whereas
over Mansarowar heavy black clouds hung overhead and rain fell
incessantly. From time to time the wind blew off the rain for a few
minutes, and lovely effects of light played upon the water. Fresh
clouds, with violent bursts of thunder, soon made the scene again gloomy
and depressing.

It was much warmer on the Mansarowar side of the ridge than on the
Rakastal side. Probably owing to the dampness, the air seemed quite
thick to breathe, instead of being crisp and light, as it was along the
shores of the Devil's Lake. Indeed, when I recall the Mansarowar, I
cannot help thinking that it was the home, not only of the gods, but
also of storms.

We descended some two miles to the plain, and crossed a rapid delta of
the Langa Tsangpo, or Langa River; then another, a mile farther. As
these rivers came directly from the snows, the water was very cold, and
often three or four feet deep, owing to the thawing of the snow and ice
during the day.

CHAPTER XII

AMONG THE LAMAS

No sooner had we reached the shores of the Mansarowar than the heavy
clouds, which had been hanging over our heads, poured forth such
torrents of rain that in a moment we were drenched to the skin. We were
marching fast, as our heavy loads were now on the two yaks. Night was
well advanced. The darkness was such that we could only see a few inches
in front of us. We were actually walking in an inch or two of water. A
fierce south-east wind drove the rain and hail so hard into our faces
and hands as to cause us considerable pain. We were chilled in our wet
garments, and our teeth were chattering. We walked quickly, keeping
close together. From time to time a bright flash of lightning shone on
the lak