ad a good look round the village. After
the storm of the night we fully expected that the weather would clear
and that we might see a bright blue sky, but we had no luck. Over us
hung again threatening clouds. The waters of the sacred lake, softly
moved by the wind, washed gracefully upon the beach. Chanden Sing and
Mansing, the two Hindoos, without any clothing except a loincloth, were
squatting near the edge of the lake having their heads shaved by
Bijesing, the Johari. I must confess that I was somewhat annoyed when I
saw them using my best razor for the purpose. I repressed my anger on
remembering that, according to their religion, the fact of being at
Mansarowar absolved them from all sins. My two Hindoo servants, with
heads turned toward Kelas Mount, were praying so fervently that I stood
to watch them. They washed themselves repeatedly, and at last plunged
into the water of the lake. On coming out, shivering with cold, they
each took out of their clothes a silver rupee, and flung it into the
lake as an offering to the God Mahadeva. Then, with hairless faces and
heads, they dressed and came to pay their salaams to me, professing to
be now happy and pure.

"Siva, the greatest of all gods, lives in the waters of Mansarowar!"
exclaimed Chanden Sing, in a poetic mood. "I have bathed in its waters,
and of its waters I have drunk. I have salaamed the great Kelas, the
sight of which alone can absolve all sins of humanity. I shall now go to
heaven."

"I shall be satisfied if we get as far as Lhassa," grumbled the
sceptical Mansing, out of ear-reach of the Tibetans.

Chanden Sing, who was well versed in religious matters, explained that
only Hindoo pilgrims who had lost both parents shaved their heads on
visiting Mansarowar, as a sacrifice to Siva. If they were of a high
caste, on their return to their native land after the pilgrimage it was
customary to entertain all the Brahmins of the town to a banquet.
According to Chanden Sing, a man who had bathed in Mansarowar was held
in great respect by everybody, and commanded the admiration and envy of
the entire world.

The Mansarowar Lake is about forty-six miles round. Pilgrims who wish to
attain a great state of sanctity make a _kora_, or circuit, on foot
along the water-line. The journey occupies from four to seven days,
according to circumstances. One trip round will absolve the pilgrim from
ordinary sins; twice the circuit clears the conscience of any murder;
and thr