an," Mrs. Burton "bade adieu
to the Anti-Lebanon with a heavy heart, and for the last time, choking
with emotion, rode down the mountain and through the Plain of Zebedani,
with a very large train of followers."--"I had a sorrowful ride," says
she, "into Damascus. Just outside the city gates I met the Wali, driving
in state, with all his suite. He looked radiant, and saluted me with
much empressement. I did not return his salute." [245]

It is satisfactory to know that Rashid Pasha's triumph was short-lived.
Within a month of Burton's departure he was recalled by the Porte and
disgraced. Not only so but every measure which Burton had recommended
during his consulship was ordered to be carried out, and "The reform
was so thorough and complete, that Her Majesty's Ambassador at
Constantinople was directed officially to compliment the Porte upon its
newly initiated line of progress." But nobody thanked, or even though
of Burton. On the occasion of his departure Burton received shoals
of letters from prominent men of "every creed, race and tongue,"
manifesting sorrow and wishing him God-speed. Delightful, indeed, was
the prologue of that from Abd El Kadir: "Allah," it ran, "favour the
days of your far-famed learning, and prosper the excellence of your
writing. O wader of the seas of knowledge, O cistern of learning of our
globe, exalted above his age, whose exaltation is above the mountains
of increase and our rising place, opener by his books of night and
day, traveller by ship and foot and horse, one whom none can equal in
travel." The letter itself was couched in a few simple, heartfelt words,
and terminated with "It is our personal friendship to you which dictates
this letter." "You have departed," wrote a Druze shaykh, "leaving us the
sweet perfume of charity and noble conduct in befriending the poor and
supporting the weak and oppressed, and your name is large on account of
what God has put into your nature."

Some of the authorities at home gave out that one of the reasons for
Burton's recall was that his life was in danger from the bullets of his
enemies, but Burton commented drily: "I have been shot at, at different
times, by at least forty men who fortunately could not shoot straight.
Once more would not have mattered much."

Chapter XV. 16th August 1871-4th June 1872, "The Blackness of Darkness"

64. With Sir H. Stisted at Norwood. August 1871.

Arrived in England Burton went straight to his siste