at the well Zem-Zem, Burton had
to take another nauseous draught and was deluged with two skinfuls of
the water dashed over his head. This causes sins to fall from the spirit
like dust. He also said the customary prayers at the Makam Ibrahim or
Praying Place of Abraham [131] and other shrines. At last, thoroughly
worn out, with scorched feet and a burning head, he worked his way out
of the Mosque, but he was supremely happy for he had now seen:

"Safa, Zem-Zem, Hatim's wall,
And holy Kaaba's night-black pall." [132]

The next day he journeyed to the sacred Mount of Arafat, familiar to
readers of The Arabian Nights from the touching story of Abu Hasan and
Abu Ja'afar the Leper and [133] he estimated that he was but one of
50,000 pilgrims. The mountain was alive with people, and the huge camp
at its foot had booths, huts and bazaars stocked with all manner of
Eastern delicacies, and crowded with purchasers. Instead, however, of
listening to the sermons, Burton got flirting with a Meccan girl with
citrine skin and liquescent eyes.

On the third day, mounted on an ass, he made for Muna and took part in
the ceremony called Stoning the Devil. He was, however, but one of a
multitude, and, in order to get to the stoned pillar a good deal
of shouldering and fighting was necessary. Both Burton and the boy
Mohammed, however, gained their end, and like the rest of the people,
vigorously pelted the devil, saying as they did so, "In the name of
Allah--Allah is Almighty." To get out of the crowd was as difficult
as it had been to get in. Mohammed received a blow in the face which
brought the blood from his nose, and Burton was knocked down; but by
"the judicious use of the knife" he gradually worked his way into the
open again, and piously went once more to have his head shaved and
his nails cut, repeating prayers incessantly. Soon after his return to
Mecca, Mohammed ran up to him in intense excitement. "Rise, Effendi,"
he cried, "dress and follow me; the Kaaba is open." The pair then made
their way thither with alacrity, and, replies to the officials in charge
being satisfactory, Mohammed was authoritatively ordered to conduct
Burton round the building. They entered. It was a perilous moment; and
when Burton looked at the windowless walls and at the officials at the
door, and thought of the serried mass of excited fanatics outside, he
felt like a trapped rat. However safe a Christian might have been at
Mecca, nothing could