road has been conducted to the
summit, where the space is so confined that a few persons only can be
accommodated at the same time, but from whence the prospect is
indescribably magnificent: it is called Corcovado, and is a favourite
ride with the Emperor.

From Botafogo the road to the capital is studded on both sides with
pretty villas. The town derives its name, Rio Janeiro, or January river,
from an error on the first discovery of the bay, which, owing to the
narrowness of its mouth, was mistaken for a river, and named after the
current month. Its interior by no means corresponds with its handsome
appearance from the bay, the streets being narrow and dirty, and the
buildings very tasteless. Clumsy churches and convents are found in
plenty, but there is little worthy the attention of the traveller,
except the Museum, which has a rich collection of rare natural
curiosities, and valuable minerals. The extent of the town is
considerable, and it contains about two hundred and fifty thousand
inhabitants, of which however two-thirds are negroes, and the rest
principally mulattoes and other people of colour. A white face is seldom
to be seen in the streets; but the blacks are so numerous, that one
might fancy oneself in Africa.

Among these are a few free men; but the greater part are slaves degraded
to beasts of burden. The immense weights they carry are usually fastened
on a plank, each end of which is borne by a negro, keeping time to his
steps by a monotonous and melancholy song in his native language, and
goaded by the whip to renewed efforts, when the failing of his voice
indicates almost utter exhaustion. They often carry heavily laden
baskets on their heads; and even women are not exempt from this labour.

On Sundays and holidays they also sing in time to their steps, as they
stroll about, but the tune has a more lively character; and they
sometimes accompany their voices on a little instrument composed of a
few steel springs. They understand no other language than that of their
distant country, and therefore, though the ceremony of baptism is never
omitted, they receive no instruction in the doctrines of Christianity;
thus, while an appearance of anxiety concerning the salvation of their
souls is maintained, they continue sunk in the state of misery and
darkness which hopeless bodily suffering is so calculated to produce.
The few free blacks are either manumitted slaves or their descendants:
they are mostly mech