e--no uncommon occurrence in these regions. The new town of
this name has been built farther inland, on the banks of the beautiful
river Biobio, and is seven miles distant from Talcaguana.
Early in the morning on the 18th of January, I went with Dr. Eschscholtz
to Talcaguana, where horses were in waiting to take us to Conception.
The heavy, clumsy cars drawn by oxen, which I believe I described in my
former voyage, are the only kind of carriage known here; and as even the
ladies use these only on state occasions, they perform all their
journeys, as in days of old, on horseback.
The Russian flag having waved here but twice since the foundation of the
world, curiosity had brought a great crowd to witness my disembarkation;
and as it was now ascertained that the Captain was the same who, eight
years before, had so much delighted the inhabitants with a ball, many
of my old acquaintances and guests had assembled to welcome me. I could
not resist their kind and pressing invitations to visit them once more,
before going to Conception. I was received with the greatest cordiality,
and all possible pains were taken to entertain me; but they complained
sadly of the ravages of war, which had brought its usual concomitants,
poverty and ruin, in its train. A melancholy change had taken place
since my former visit; some of the wealthiest families had removed from
Lima, and a striking difference was perceptible in the establishments of
those that remained; while the silver utensils which formerly had been
so common even among the poorer inhabitants, had wholly disappeared, and
were replaced by a bad description of stone ware.
The same traces of desolation were visible along the once beautiful road
to Conception, whither we proceeded on spirited horses, as soon as we
had paid the required visits. Instead of the numerous flocks and herds
which once adorned the meadows, burnt villages, uncultivated fields,
devastated orchards, and swarms of beggars, presented a painful picture
of universal want and misery. Such are the heavy sacrifices with which
Chili has purchased her independence. May she enjoy their fruits under a
government sufficiently wise and powerful to restore her prosperity!
Our two hours' ride afforded ample time and scope for these reflections;
and on reaching the town, we were concerned to find similar symptoms of
misfortune. A great part of it lay in ruins; and the houses yet standing
were occupied, not by useful citi
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