zens, or active, speculating merchants,
but by soldiers. The former have, with few exceptions, withdrawn from
Conception to Mexico and Peru. But the war of the Revolution is not
chargeable with all the desolation which has befallen this unhappy town.
A year before it broke out, a great horde of wild Araucanians, availing
themselves of an opportunity when the Chilian troops were elsewhere
employed, fell so suddenly upon the town during the night, that the
inhabitants, who had not the slightest warning till the enemy was within
their walls, were unable to defend themselves. Well knowing that they
could not maintain their post, the Araucanians were active in the work
of rapine and murder, and at length withdrew to their mountains laden
with rich booty.

These Araucanians, among whom such expeditions are not unfrequent, are,
according to the accounts of officers here, a very warlike people, well
armed with bows, arrows, and lances: they make their onset in great
hordes, with a wild yell, and with such fury and rapidity that it is not
easy even for regular troops to resist. If this, however, can be firmly
withstood, they are in a few minutes defeated and put to flight. When
pursued, they escape shots and sabre strokes by the dexterity with which
they fling themselves on either side of their horses; sometimes even
hanging under the horse's belly while it is going at full gallop. When
escape is impossible, they defend themselves to the last, preferring
death to captivity.

From Rio Janeiro I had brought a letter of introduction to a once rich
and still prosperous merchant in Conception, named Mendiburu; I
immediately sought him out, and was received and entertained with the
kindest hospitality. His house proved to be the same which, on my
former visit to Conception, the then Governor had appointed for my
accommodation. At that time many discontented spirits had already shown
themselves, had assumed the appellation of patriots, and were persecuted
by the Government; Mendiburu was one of these, and having made his
escape, the Government, till its overthrow, had kept possession of his
house.

My complaisant host, a little man, rather advanced in years, who in many
respects was extremely useful to us, accompanied us, as soon as we had
arranged our dress, to the President Freire. The latter received us in
the full uniform of a general officer, with the most ceremonious
politeness, but still kindly, although something of distrust