, planted with the cocoa and lofty bread-fruit tree, leads from his
house, about a ten minutes' walk, to the place of worship. The
church-yard, with its black wooden crosses, impresses the mind with a
feeling of solemnity: the church itself is a handsome building, about
twenty fathoms long and ten broad, constructed of light wood-work
adapted to the climate, and whitened on the outside, which gives it a
pretty effect among the green shades that surround it. The numerous
large windows remain unglazed, because a free admission of the air is
here desirable in all seasons; the roof, made of ingeniously plaited
reeds, and covered with immense leaves, is a sufficient defence against
the heaviest rain; there is neither steeple nor clock. The interior of
the church is one large hall, the walls of which are neatly kept; it is
filled with a number of benches, so placed, in long rows, that the
occupants can have a convenient view of the pulpit in the centre. When
we entered, the church was full even to crowding, the men seated on one
side, and the women on the other; they almost all had psalm-books lying
before them; the most profound stillness reigned in the assembly. Near
the pulpit, which Wilson mounted, was placed a bench for Messrs. Bennet
and Tyrman, on which I also took my seat.
Notwithstanding the seriousness and devotion apparent among the
Tahaitians, it is almost impossible for an European, seeing them for the
first time in their Sunday attire, to refrain from laughter. The high
value which they set on clothes of our manufacture has already been
remarked; they are more proud of possessing them than are our ladies of
diamonds and Persian shawls, or our gentlemen of stars and orders. As
they know nothing of our fashions, they pay no sort of attention to the
cut, and even age and wear do not much diminish their estimation of
their attire; a ripped-out seam, or a hole, is no drawback in the
elegance of the article. These clothes, which are brought to Tahaiti by
merchant-ships, are purchased at a rag-market, and sold here at an
enormous profit. The Tahaitian therefore, finding a complete suit of
clothes very expensive, contents himself with a single garment; whoever
can obtain an English military coat, or even a plain one, goes about
with the rest of his body naked, except the universally-worn girdle; the
happy owner of a waistcoat or a pair of trowsers, thinks his wardrobe
amply furnished. Some have nothing more than a shirt
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